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Definitions:

Dihedral: This is the "hump" in the middle of the paddle blade (lengthwise)
   It reduces how much you need to grip your paddle as you pull it in the
   water, since it better channels the water correctly (evenly) off the blade.
   You do lose a very small amount of "power" in the stroke because the
   blade is more hydrodynamic, but overall a dihedral is less fatiguing and
   you save energy since you don't need to grip your paddle as tightly (to hold
   it straight as you pull it through the water).
  Our Recommendation:     We make the paddle with or without a dihedral
   (at the same cost to you. In reality it is easier, at least for us, to make a
    paddle without one. Nevertheless, we generally recommend a dihedral for
    everyone except possibly racers.
Ferrule: This is where, for ex., a two piece paddle joins together in the middle
    of the shaft. A "ferrule angle" is the degree at which the two paddle
    blades are offset from each other. The offset facilitates less wind
    resistance (70- degrees has generally be determined through studies as the
    optimal "general" angle, although 60 degrees is common since anything
    greater is typically uncomfortable for most people's wrists. The ferrule angle
   is sometimes referred to as the blade feathering angle.
cm to inches: 1 inch = 2.54 cm

Factors in choosing a paddle length:
   These include: how tall & big/small built you are, your arm length, kayak
   width, how high you sit off the water, and of course personal taste. There
   are other considerations as well, but these are many of the major factors.
Choosing a shaft size:
   If the base of your hand to your tallest finger is 6.5 inches or less, we
  strongly recommend the Small shaft size. If this distance is 7.5 inches or
  more, we recommend the Standard shaft size. If your hand is between
  these sizes, consider if you prefer to hold a slightly smaller or slightly larger
  shaft.

   Need more Help? Please contact us!